Tannic Teeth

Skirting around the faux pas food–wine matching, Shiraz and Asian is an unlikely combination. But it’s a folly well played.

I know food and wine matching goose-steppers would resound crisp Riesling or Sem Savvy Blancs with Asian food, so it was with stubborn denial that I ventured with a friend to Hawker’s Cuisine with a McLaren Vale Shiraz in tow. The aim was to see what dishes this rickety bee-hive of a restaurant had to offer.

Upon first impressions, this restaurant looks like any grime encrusted eatery in China Town. If the jittery queue of people trying to get in is anything to go by, they would sure be blind to this fact. We were assured our table would be ready in 10–15 minutes. No biggie. I wouldn’t have expected a place bursting at the seams to accommodate anyone as a table walk-in.

After having a stroll around Northbridge to kill some time, we entered Hawker’s Cuisine again, bumbled around inside for a few more minutes, then sat at a table. I would imagine everyone goes through this triage in order to dine. Our waitperson scurries off with an order. Wine time.

While at Steves earlier on that day, I had bumped into a young winemaker, Tom Stransky. A graduate from UWA’s Viticulture and Oenology, his curious intensity lead him around the world in 13 vintages to almost every wine producing region bar Spain.
He has delicately made small-batch wines from McLaren Vale fruit, and had them emblematically labelled. The Mo’ Shiraz it’s called. Profoundly, it has a Mo’ on it.

Tom was to save the only spare bottle he had that day (the gold mo’s are apparently for family) to give to his uncle, but he graciously gave it for tasting. [Tasting note at the end]

We ordered Spicy Squid Tentacles (they apologised and brought out sliced squid tubes instead), Beef Rendang and Tofu Veggie Claypot. Aside from the squid being a little too oily with a thin batter, the flavour of intensity were commanding. The Rendang espically married the wine, a soft sweet fruit immixed with the star ainse based beef. The tofu came out on a little tea-light burner to keep it hot, was as expected in quality and mass.

This is a place for a no frills midweek meal. The service is edgy but effective.

Like most people dining outside, we disregarded the cockroach crawling up the wall in favour of a steaming bowl of Asian love. Really hits the spot.

Thumbs up for Hawker’s.

The Mo’ Shiraz 2008 (Mt Compass, McLaren Vale, Clarendon)
If supple could be used as a descriptor in wine, this red is a Russian contortionist. It has a chunky fruit-jube character on the nose, it’s a ripe temptress. Slurped with gusto over the tongue, The Mo’ is lighter than expected in tannin profile. This gives two impressions. One a bendy, flexible nature to it — a fleshy skinned plum cheek. The other, it’s not as tapering or elongatedly thread-like. It ends solidly with ample fruit weight. 17.1

It may just be a taste hangover from the previous rabbit post, but again I’m in the game, for game. And good wine.

Aside from the standard European table-fare of game (rabbit, boar, pheasant, grouse, etc), we decided to have a crack at Kangaroo, Emu and Possum.

Yes, I know eating all of our national coat of arms would probably make the rest of the world recoil in horror, but I must tell you, when paired with good wine, it’s a  combination worthy of the deserved political atrocity.

Kangaroo is now a common meat available at most retail supermarkets, but keep hush-hush about it. I’d like to see it at $13.67 per kg for a long time still.

Emu is less common. With a dark meat, and similar pH, texture and taste to beef, you’d be hard pressed to convince a Beefeater it was a giant bird from Australia.

Last was Possom. Confit(ted), it tasted like duck with a slight ripple of porkyness. The texture was akin to chicken thigh that had a run-in with a forceful kitchen-hand. New Zealand has an issue with possums; they should eat them crumbed with sweet chilli. “Sweet Chilli Possum Wrap at KFP” — Perhaps it’ll take a while for the market to warm.

The wine that we decided to pick-a-part on the night was Forest Hill Vineyard “Boobook” Shiraz Viognier 2007 [Great Southern]

From first inspection it’s easy to tell there is much going on below the surface. Good splatterings of ripe berries and decorous oak which swayed between vanillian and cedar. On the tannin-front the wine presents a powdery texture, as if you copped it in the mouth in a baby-parlour. Purposefully  balanced, with Viognier’s heart sent on complimenting Shiraz and not providing too much to dwell on; Florally lifted, tumultuous fruit. As easy going as you’d expect from  Great Southern for the price. 17.6 points

Spend Summer with the Locals. Flora and Fauna.

So the Dead Arm Shiraz has a bit of a name for itself. If you don’t know the history of the wine, there is a certain fungi (Eutypa lata) that renders part of the vine dead, hence the ‘dead arm’.  Apparently it also makes the quality of grapes on the remaining half of higher quality. Apparently.

Well in all intents and purposes it DOES deliver a good wine. Though one may achieve this though drought stress, canopy management, fruit thinning to achieve a higher quality crop and thus resulting wine.

The instant character fresh from lively decant is a splattered array of blackcurrant and reduced red fruits. Though over time the nose grows a hairy animal belly and locks itself behind something akin to a leather suit case. Hints of succulent berry do poke though, but you’re going to need your beagle with you to find them. Flavourful and giving on the palate with a good punchy long lasting end. There could have been more fruit sweetness but you can’t have everything in one glass. As expected for the price. RRP $60

Sporting 4 Gold medals in various classes from wine shows from Hobart to Griffith, Yarra Burn 2003 Shiraz Viognier is one very well balanced drop. Apparently it’s the signature of Yarra Burn, and situated in the atypically cool Yarra Valley it also produces excellent sparklings; the Shiraz Viognier is no exception.

Yarra Burn Shiraz Viognier 2003 [Yarra Valley] Victoria 13.5%

‘From it’s Rhône Valley inspired roots, the Shiraz Viognier is undeniably French in style but with the squeaky clean feel that we know of ‘down under’ wines. Characters of just ripe plum, and slight mineral pepperyness, this wine is larger on the palate, helped along quite nicely with the Viognier lushness, there is a little sweetness. It’s not out of line however, as the grippy tannins keep the profile in check, applicably texturous, well rounded off on the finish of chocolaty Shiraz goodness. Overall impressions are well balanced, generous and very approachable. ‘

In a momentary flux of caffeinated inspiration [from the previous coffee posting] I thought I should get another wine review out of the way, albeit a small dent in the backlog of those pending. Upon tasting this wine back in early 2007 it has changed a fair bit from first mental impression; having tasted it again it has softened, but those who enjoy the pungency of youthful Langhorne Creek Shiraz move on to 2006. Still a great wine and will drink well into early 2010’s.

Bremerton ‘Selkirk’ Shiraz 2005 [Langhorne Creek] South Australia 14.5%

Bearing the hallmarks of proudly made by women, ‘Selkirk’ delivers well above value for money in the ‘dollar for drop’ ratio. Whilst loosing it’s young purpley vividness of what I remembered, it’s still got a few good whacks of fruit splattering amongst the predominantly leather-earthiness grain. Restrained dark berries falling in the blackberry spectrum, interplay with the textural mouth-feel – delivering fruit derived richness all the way to the end of the squeaky clean palate. Oak stands out shoulder height (compared to berry richness) with a smokey hint and timberyness starting to shift ground to the back- to be expected as it ages. All in all this wine is balanced, slightly jammy slightly earthy with good texture and length. Value for money wise it’s a winner.

d’Arenberg ‘The Sticks and Stones’ 2005 [McLaren Vale] 14.5% (Screwcap)

‘Some what of a hotch-potch of Southern European grape varieties, d’Arenberg’s ‘The Sticks and Stones’ gives much in the way of textural wine with a twist. Comprising of more or less half Tempranillo (48%), Grenache (42%) and Shiraz (10%), it’s a wine that sits comfortably in the gamy earthy spectrum initially, with distinct leather strap and damp earth. It may not sound attractive however there are underlying layers of sweet fruit, strawberry and currant. Definitely not rich cassis or reduced plums in this batch. Tactially it feels larger; spreading deep diving tannins pucker, adhere and rasp your tongue and lips. Though not enduring, the sensation is somewhat transient, only to be replenished with another sip. Finishes in decent time and length. Would compliment game or other strongly flavoured meats.’

Totally engulfed by development, Conti Wines sits on Wanneroo Rd in Woodvale. Vineyards, farms and market gardens have succumbed to the relentless suburban sprawl, dissolving only but the fiercest of primary producers.  Conti Winery is a veteran amongst the younger upstarts of our state, starting in 1958 -still family owned and operated, and actually doing well for an independent producer. A wine from the very vines that were planted in 1958- Hermitage back then – now Shiraz, called ‘Mariginiup’ Shiraz is one of great pedigree, with a loyal following over the decades. It is with this in mind, that I respectfully disgorged and swill away a bit of vinous history.

Paul Conti ‘Mariginiup’ Shiraz [Swan Plains] 2004 (Cork)

‘Deep red in colour, this wine exhibits a fragrant aroma much like boiled candies and pastille. Floral notes lurk in the background with anisette. The as-you-would-expect rich plums and red berries form the foundation, layered with said floral notes. Succulent mouth feel of this wine, despite being dry, provide much of a sensory perception, red fruits and sweeter but not jammy textures unfurl. Tannins are softer than what I would expect from a Swan Coastal Plain dry grown Shiraz, with the subtle hints of oak give an overall impression on a wine that has been crafted with balance and poise in mind. It’s not voluptuous or chunky, but rather finished in an elegant finesse something that would compliment food and not detract from the overall sensory package.’

Not quite the forte for Shiraz, Margaret River excels in Cabernet and SSB blends. So it is with zeal that I peer over the rim for this prominent producer of iconic drops- Leeuwin Estate- and delve into still vivid red sea of the 2004 Shiraz. Enjoy the vinous dissection.

Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Shiraz [Margaret River] 2004 (Cork)

‘2004 for Margs was a slow ripening season ending in a crescendo of more-or-less perfect weather. The deep red intensity of the wine, shows hints of youthful purple, slowly fading into the background. This wine needs decanting being very herbal and restrained otherwise; Sage and cool timbery oak present on the whiffs from the glass. Unfurling further, sweet plums and black fruits all present for the roll call, timbery oak still nearby the first row. Layers of floral notes come through towards the end, violets and petal ( yes I know it sounds wanky), all in all this with is sweet and floral . Palate is generous and well rounded; full bodied mid palate , seemingly well balanced, tannins have softened- pleasantly velvety. The flavour and intensity carries well through to the end of minimum commotion ending in an 80% dark chocolate bitter finish.’