Tannic Teeth

I was recently asked to present an eight course degustation paired with wines at Clairault Winery, Margaret River. This quintessential Margaret River winery was host to 70 diners on a perfect autumn day. The only thing missing here is the sultry sound of jazz by Michelle Spriggs and Kevin McDonald.

To keep all our belts from prolapsing, I’ve presented the degustation in segments. Enjoy part one.

[Play music]

Noodle soups are the 100 metre sprint of dining. And if a one bowl wonder is the fastest race on earth then degustations are the marathons of culinary arts.

To be at the receiving end of an eight-course procession at Clariault winery by Jone of those “watch-this-space” chefs Jake Drachenberg, is an instructive experience. Firstly, Jake insists on sourcing locally. So much so, the kitchen staff multitask as green thumbs to Clairault’s vege patch.

Clairault’s Local Degustation teed off with “Little flavours from all over” (unpictured). Sauvignon Blanc 2010 with its attentive lime-zest timbre, quelled the spicyness of the chilli-pineapple seared scallop. It was succulent and thick in the maritime juice it exudes when cauterised on a hotplate. This was part of a canapé procession: shortcrust leek tarts, beef and caramelised onion and venison rounds.

The first entrée, another quattro of flavours: salmon, occy, cuttlefish and mussel came plated in a mild acidic jus – two nipples of homemade mustard a nod to the wasabi–sashimi tradition. Each of the creatures, wickedly different in their nature, had the saltwater tang the ocean imprints. The SSB 2010 became Poseidon’s trident, commanding the dish together. Vegetal citrus SB and the steely cool edge of Sem is an easy win with seafood.

Most playfully experimental and borderline Tim Burton of the courses: Orange Brioche, chardonnay jelly with beetroot and curd. The starchy butteryness, with orange zest played off the lactic goat curd with ease. Chive flowers that exploded in alliaceous tingle, while the beetroot – sweet and earthbound – gave the dish bassey brown tones. The cube of wine jelly – the umbilical cord – a mild genuflect to the racy Estate Chardonnay 2009 of which it was paired.

The course of whiting, zaalouk (eggplant), labne (hung yoghurt) with sliced fennel and cardamom was the older sister to the entree. Yes, it was another easy win. But to have whiting so unapologetically fried with nothing but salt, on a bed of cardamom infused eggplant? Here there was dynamism, confidence and a gesture to Middle East, and with the Estate Chardonnay 2006 unfurling in the glass beside, stole the show.

[Jazz music fades]

Testament to the age of this wine, it’s curiously named Rhine Riesling.

Back in the good old days when European countries weren’t yet up in arms over wine appellation, you could name your wine in honour of the region of the grape’s birthplace. Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne. In many regards, Australians today have abandoned the ‘Burgundies and the Chablis’ but are still grappling with the term Champagne. I hear it thrown about on a regular basis when the term Sparkling wine is meant. “I am after Bella Champagne” — “No, you are after Bella Sparkling.”

Unlike Champagne, the term Rhine Riesling has too gone the way of the dodo.

On that note, wines made in the era of lose appellation often surface now and again. 1986 turned out to be pivotal for Leeuwin, the Rhine Riesling soon to become the ‘Arts series’.

Deep yellow in colour like when you have too many B vitamins, it has all the toffee notes from afar, that flitter from butterscotch to lemon whizz-fizz. The palate has softened, bringing with it what it could drag from the nose. Toasty complexity meets limey zing. A totally coherent little bento-box of surprises. The acidity (still fresh) is enough to bestow the title of Methuselah. If only it had been on screwcap it could live for another two decades. Once in a lifetime wine.

Now 1986 is almost quarter of a century of life in the bottle. And who does the best value-for-money age-worthy Rieslings in Australia?

Great Southern.

Producers like, Castelli, Castle Rock, 3 Drops, Oranje Tractor, Frankland River Estate. They all do fantastic wines.

If you can track down a good Riesling and squirrel it away for 25 years, you’ll be surprised with what you’ll find.

Who would ever think that one of the most destructive introduced pests to Australia would fetch $21 per kilo at your butcher? Though I can say that these rabbits are farmed; they’re white (to be honest I prefer the wild rabbit) and pretty much taste like – you guessed it – chicken. And for a whole boned sectioned carcass, that’s about $24 a pop.

Leaner than beef, pork and chicken, rabbit meat is per meter squared, the most ecologically sustainable animal protein. They can be grown in hutches, mature quickly and, er, breed like rabbits. I don’t understand why rabbit meat isn’t:

1) cheaper

2) introduced widely among culinary menus (along with Kangaroo).

3) readily avilable available (thanks wonderfully accurate and anonymous literati for your contribution)

Our hopping friends are our only future if every one of the 6.6 billion hungry mouths are to get adequate protein and not reduce the earth to dust.

So we thought we would roast a rabbit (or two) and enjoy with some WA wine. I’ve kept wine it in the theme of the Rhône Valley. Shiraz (Syrah), Viognier, Marssane, and Roussane.

I could have been daring and picked a few bunnies off the road on the way to the butchers. But with the recent spell of Bikram weather, they’ed be close to jerky au jus than anything else.

Clairault can be said to be wear the stripes it’s earned during the harsh and formative years of Margaret River some 30 odd years ago. Truly one of the regions veterans, Clairault produces wines of distinctive style, reflecting that of Bordeaux;in many ways climate and topography is very similar, Margaret River receiving slightly more sun. 2007 was an outstanding year for Margs but then again this place seems to be unusually blessed with freakishly good weather taking into account climate change/ cycling.

Clairault Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007 [Margaret River] Western Australia 13%

‘Gleaming from the glass in bright pale straw, this wine carries the traditional SSB blend from Margaret River. Gauva, Passion Fruit, Grassy characters are so palpable and reminiscent of the real deal. The palate unveils the same bountiful tropical array, but also shows restraint when needed, supplely pulling the entire show back into line with a mineral lime acidic zing. The length is not overtly long, nor is it disappointingly short, it sits comfortably with poise given the bestowed fruit characters.’

One of the many jewels illustriously studded into the LVMH crown, Cape Mentelle enjoys the cooperate success of being part of something bigger. LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennesy) is the world’s largest luxury brand conglomerate owning the likes of the aforementioned also Gucci, Fendi, Tag Heuer, Château d’Yquem, Cloudy Bay and KRUG plus about 51 more iconic brands. This enables a lower revenue enterprise like vineyards and wineries to be propped up by the revenue from an overly priced pair of jeans. No wonder their wines dazzle with technical brilliance from a no expense spared environment.

Cape Mentelle Sangiovese 2006 [Margaret River] Western Australia 13.5%

‘Sangiovese quickly becoming a mainstream wine in Australia, is more approachable than Cabernet at the same age. Generous dark cherry and coffee notes waft from the surface of this wine, at times requiring some coaxing. There is also anise and spice evident on the nose, towards the palate it’s quite full bodied with plenty of guts, making up for perhaps where the nose lacked. Not at all lacking was the tannins, in abundance, but more velvety and of different texture than say Shiraz and Cab. The subtle influence of [stated] French oak edges this wine into chewy territory, the finish being of reasonable length and persistence. Top notch and highly recommended, but overall nothing out of the ordinary here – this is what you would expect when your siblings are d’Yquem and Cloudy Bay.’