Tannic Teeth

So the Dead Arm Shiraz has a bit of a name for itself. If you don’t know the history of the wine, there is a certain fungi (Eutypa lata) that renders part of the vine dead, hence the ‘dead arm’.  Apparently it also makes the quality of grapes on the remaining half of higher quality. Apparently.

Well in all intents and purposes it DOES deliver a good wine. Though one may achieve this though drought stress, canopy management, fruit thinning to achieve a higher quality crop and thus resulting wine.

The instant character fresh from lively decant is a splattered array of blackcurrant and reduced red fruits. Though over time the nose grows a hairy animal belly and locks itself behind something akin to a leather suit case. Hints of succulent berry do poke though, but you’re going to need your beagle with you to find them. Flavourful and giving on the palate with a good punchy long lasting end. There could have been more fruit sweetness but you can’t have everything in one glass. As expected for the price. RRP $60

Probably the largest planted grape in all of Spain, Tempranillo has only a select representation in Australia; Adelaide Hills prefectly suited to showcase this variety. Fragrant, lifted wines encompassing the dark cherry spectrum with approachable tannins. It’s a supple grape variety with mass appeal.

Mr Riggs Tempranillo 2004 [Adelaide Hills] South Australia 14.5%

‘Not peering too deeply into this wine, it’s upfront with a reasonable array of cherry, leather and sweet spice. This wine belongs to the Yucca Paddock, a single vineyard wine concocted by Ben Riggs and Co. Fruitful and generous, the mouth feel is not too big but ample fruit and hints of menthol; finely complementing the mince and mushroom Gözleme later devoured.’

Totally engulfed by development, Conti Wines sits on Wanneroo Rd in Woodvale. Vineyards, farms and market gardens have succumbed to the relentless suburban sprawl, dissolving only but the fiercest of primary producers.  Conti Winery is a veteran amongst the younger upstarts of our state, starting in 1958 -still family owned and operated, and actually doing well for an independent producer. A wine from the very vines that were planted in 1958- Hermitage back then – now Shiraz, called ‘Mariginiup’ Shiraz is one of great pedigree, with a loyal following over the decades. It is with this in mind, that I respectfully disgorged and swill away a bit of vinous history.

Paul Conti ‘Mariginiup’ Shiraz [Swan Plains] 2004 (Cork)

‘Deep red in colour, this wine exhibits a fragrant aroma much like boiled candies and pastille. Floral notes lurk in the background with anisette. The as-you-would-expect rich plums and red berries form the foundation, layered with said floral notes. Succulent mouth feel of this wine, despite being dry, provide much of a sensory perception, red fruits and sweeter but not jammy textures unfurl. Tannins are softer than what I would expect from a Swan Coastal Plain dry grown Shiraz, with the subtle hints of oak give an overall impression on a wine that has been crafted with balance and poise in mind. It’s not voluptuous or chunky, but rather finished in an elegant finesse something that would compliment food and not detract from the overall sensory package.’

Not quite the forte for Shiraz, Margaret River excels in Cabernet and SSB blends. So it is with zeal that I peer over the rim for this prominent producer of iconic drops- Leeuwin Estate- and delve into still vivid red sea of the 2004 Shiraz. Enjoy the vinous dissection.

Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Shiraz [Margaret River] 2004 (Cork)

‘2004 for Margs was a slow ripening season ending in a crescendo of more-or-less perfect weather. The deep red intensity of the wine, shows hints of youthful purple, slowly fading into the background. This wine needs decanting being very herbal and restrained otherwise; Sage and cool timbery oak present on the whiffs from the glass. Unfurling further, sweet plums and black fruits all present for the roll call, timbery oak still nearby the first row. Layers of floral notes come through towards the end, violets and petal ( yes I know it sounds wanky), all in all this with is sweet and floral . Palate is generous and well rounded; full bodied mid palate , seemingly well balanced, tannins have softened- pleasantly velvety. The flavour and intensity carries well through to the end of minimum commotion ending in an 80% dark chocolate bitter finish.’